Objective. Students will apply Ohm's Law and series/parallel circuit rules to calculate expected voltage, current, and resistance values in appliance circuits and explain the difference between 120 V and 240 V residential supply configurations.
This lesson, its worked examples and its practice questions has not yet been verified by a credentialed professional in the field or by a certification or approval body. It is a study draft and may contain errors. Do not use it as instructions for work on a job site or on live equipment. Always follow your instructor, your supervising professional, and current official references and regulations.
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Every appliance—whether a dishwasher, electric dryer, or microwave—is an electrical circuit. Before you can diagnose a fault, you need to predict what the normal voltages, currents, and resistances should be. That prediction comes from two foundational tools: Ohm's Law and the rules for series and parallel circuits.
Ohm's Law states that voltage, current, and resistance are always related by:
> V = I × R
where V is voltage in volts (V), I is current in amperes (A), and R is resistance in ohms (Ω). Rearranged: I = V ÷ R and R = V ÷ I.
The power formula connects electrical power to voltage and current:
> P = V × I
Power is measured in watts (W). Because V = IR, you can also write P = I²R or P = V²÷R. Appliance nameplates list wattage and voltage, so you can solve for current even before you touch a meter.
Example: A dryer heating element is rated 240 V / 5,400 W. Current = P ÷ V = 5,400 ÷ 240 = 22.5 A. That single number tells you what size wire and breaker the circuit needs.
In a series circuit, all components share one current path. The same current flows through every component, and the voltages across each component add up to the supply voltage:
> V_total = V₁ + V₂ + V₃ …
Total resistance is simply the sum of all resistances: R_total = R₁ + R₂ + R₃ …
In appliances, a thermostat, a safety thermal fuse, and a heating element are often wired in series. If any one of them opens (breaks), current stops everywhere in that path—the entire function goes dead. This is a critical diagnostic clue: no heat can mean a failed element or a failed thermostat or a blown thermal fuse.
In a parallel circuit, each branch has its own path back to the source. Every branch sees the full supply voltage. The total current is the sum of the branch currents:
> I_total = I₁ + I₂ + I₃ …
Total resistance is lower than any individual branch: 1/R_total = 1/R₁ + 1/R₂ + 1/R₃ …
In a household circuit panel, all outlets and appliance circuits are wired in parallel. An electric range may also have its surface burner elements wired in parallel so that one failed element does not knock out the others.
North American residential service delivers a 120/240 V split-phase supply. The service panel receives three conductors from the utility transformer: two ungrounded (hot) legs and one grounded neutral. Each hot leg is 120 V to neutral. Because the two legs are 180° out of phase with each other, measuring from hot leg to hot leg gives 240 V.
A 240 V appliance that reads only 120 V on one leg is a common fault: one hot leg is open at the breaker, the connector, or inside the appliance terminal block.
Standard wiring practice requires that a branch circuit breaker or fuse protecting a continuous load be rated at no less than 125% of the load's full-load current. A continuous load is one expected to operate for three hours or more.
> Minimum breaker size = Full-load current × 1.25
Always round up to the next standard breaker size (standard sizes include 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 A, and others). Undersizing causes nuisance trips; oversizing removes protection from the wiring.
Before measuring resistance or continuity, de-energize the appliance and unplug it (or complete lockout/tagout if it is hard-wired). Measuring resistance on a live circuit will damage your meter and can injure you. When measuring live voltage, keep one hand in your pocket or behind your back to reduce the path current takes through your body. Wear safety glasses whenever working near energized terminals. Use a meter rated for the voltage class of the circuit you are testing. Never probe a 240 V terminal with a meter rated only for 150 V CAT II or lower.
When you pick up a service call, start with the nameplate: note the supply voltage and wattage (or current). Calculate expected current and resistance before you probe anything. Then measure and compare. A heater element that reads infinite resistance is open. One that reads near zero is shorted. A 30% deviation from the calculated value in a resistive load is worth investigating further. These habits—predict, then measure—are the foundation of efficient appliance diagnostics.
Answer each question, then check it. Nothing is recorded; this is your own practice.
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